Italy - 2017
Operatif
Music-lovers Verdi tour.
(Dubai – Bologna – Reggio Emilia – Parma
– Milan - Dubai)
After a night in Dubai, we flew to Bologna.
Bologna
Bologna
is the largest city of the Emilia-Romagna Region in Northern
Italy.
It is the seventh most populous city in Italy, at the heart of a
metropolitan area of about one million people.
Bologna has a well-preserved historical centre,
thanks to a careful
restoration and conservation policy which began at the end of the 1970s.
Home to the oldest university in the world, the University of Bologna,
established in AD 1088,
the city has a large student population that gives it a cosmopolitan
character.
In 2000 it was declared European capital of culture and in
2006, a
UNESCO "city of music".
Bologna is noted for its collonades. There are more than 40km
of
them.
Bologna’s porticos were built because of the city’s
early
growth when eager students rushed to the world’s first
university.
Bologna simply needed more room. Porticos created more
liveable
space higher above ground level, with shops underneath them.
Arches at least 4 metres tall meant people riding their horses
could easily pass through.
Even artists and craftsmen could work outside, sheltered from the
elements.
University
of Bologna - The Archiginnasio
The University of Bologna, founded in 1088, is the oldest
university in continuous operation,
as well as one of the leading academic institutions in Italy and
Europe.
It is prestigious, commonly ranking first in Italian national
rankings.
This building (The Archiginnasio) was built very quickly (1562-1563).
The goal of this project was to create a single place where the Schools
of the "Legisti" (Canon and Civil law)
and "Artisti" (philosophy, medicine, mathematics, natural
sciences and physics),
previously located in various places across the town, could
be
hosted together.
The building of the new "Schools" was named Archiginnasio after the
classical term which was used to designate the Studium,
as the University was first called, of Bologna.
The Archiginnasio ceased from being a University in 1803 when the
University was moved to Palazzo Poggi where it is still located today.
Later we visited the museum at the Palazzo Poggi.
The
Anatomical Theatre
of the
Archiginnasio
at
the University
of Bologna
This beautiful, ornate wood-lined lecture theatre was built between
1636 and
1638.
The ceiling and the wall decorations were completed
from 1647 to 1649.
The
theatre was almost completely destroyed during the Second World War,
by an air raid on January 29, 1944.
After the war the theatre was
rebuilt using many of the original
pieces recovered among the rubble of the building.
Biblioteca
comunale dell'Archiginnasio
This ornate library is a another beautiful part of the Archiginnasio at
the University of Bologna.
It dates from 1838 when this section of the Archiginnasio
palace
was used to house and preserve the books
collected from the closure of the religious orders made by
Napoleon
Besides purchases there have been many donations from eminent
people and scholars of Bologna since then..
Many of the handwritten and printed items deal with the civil,
cultural, religious and social history of Bologna
and its territory from the Middle Ages to the present day.
Views
of Bologna from the roof of San Petronio Basilica
We rode a lift to a viewing
platform on the roof of the Basilica.
It was a temporary platform unlike the walk on the roof and beautiful
terraces of Milan Cathedral
later on our tour.
Poggi
Museum
The Palazzo Poggi was built as the home of Alessandro Poggi and his
brother the future Cardinal Giovanni Poggi.
The building was erected between 1549 and 1560.
In 1714 the Palazzo Poggi became the House of the Instituto dell
Scienze of Bologna.
The Institute of Science was a model learning establishment in Europe
during the Age of Enlightenment and a key part
of the University of
Bologna.
The
beautiful library of the university was built in 1744.
There
was a large collection of wax models of difficult birth
situations
that had been used as teaching aids in the Obstretic School
of the University.
An Australian "Professor"
in one of the ornate lecture rooms.
Ravenna
Ravenna, about an hours drive from Bologna, was the capital city of the
Western Roman Empire from 402 until that empire collapsed in 476.
It then served as the capital of the Ostrogothic Kingdom until it was
re-conquered in 540 by the Eastern Roman (Byzantine) Empire.
Afterwards, the city formed the centre of the Byzantine Exarchate of
Ravenna until the invasion of the Lombards in 751,
after which it became the seat of the Kingdom of the Lombards.
Although an inland city, Ravenna is connected to the Adriatic Sea by
the Candiano Canal.
It is known for its well-preserved late Roman and Byzantine
architecture and mosaics, and has eight World Heritage Sites.
Basilica
of Sant' Apollinare Nuovo - Ravenna
The Basilica of Sant'
Apollinare Nuovo was erected by
Ostrogoth King Theodoric the Great as his palace chapel during the
first quarter of the 6th century.
This Arian church was originally
dedicated in 504 AD to "Christ the Redeemer".
It was reconsecrated in 561 AD, under the rule of the Byzantine emperor
Justinian I, under the new name "Sanctus Martinus in Coelo Aureo"
("Saint Martin in Golden Heaven").Suppressing the Arian cult,
the church was dedicated to Saint
Martin of Tours, a foe of Arianism.
According to legend, Pope Gregory the Great ordered that the mosaics in
the church be blackened, as their golden glory distracted worshipers
from their prayers.
Basilica
di San Vitale - Ravenna
The Basilica has an octagonal plan. The building combines Roman
elements (the dome, shape of doorways, and stepped towers)
with Byzantine elements (polygonal apse, capitals, narrow bricks), and
an early example of flying buttresses.
The church is most famous for its wealth of Byzantine mosaics, the
largest and best preserved outside of Constantinople
The church was begun by Bishop Ecclesius in 526, when Ravenna was under
the rule of the Ostrogoths
and completed by the 27th Bishop of Ravenna, Maximian, in 547
preceding the Byzantine Exarchate of Ravenna.
The church is of extreme importance in Byzantine art, as it is the only
major church from the period of the Emperor Justinian I
to survive virtually intact to the present day.
There
were lots and lots of stunning mosaics inside the Basilica.
Battisero
delgi Orthodossi
The Baptistery of Neon (Battistero Neoniano) is the most ancient
monument remaining in the city.
The octagonal brick structure was partly erected on the site
of
Roman baths at the end of the 4th century.
It is also called the Orthodox Baptistery.
The original floor is now some 3 metres underground, so the proper
structure and extent of the building can no longer be seen.
The octagonal design of the building, employed in virtually all Early
Christian baptisteries,
symbolizes the seven days of the week plus the Day of the Resurrection
and Eternal Life.
The Baptistery was part of the great Basilica which was destroyed in
1734.
Before you could enter the Basilicas or Cathedrals you had to be
baptised.
Hence Baptisteries
were built for this ceremony.
It is not known at what time the baptistery became absorbed
into
the Basilica.
The change was made earlier in Rome than elsewhere.
A pizza in Ravenna.
Pavarotti's
House
Pavarotti built this house near Modena in 2005. He lived here until he
died in 2007.
He acquired this small rural property in the mid-eighties. In
keeping with his passion for horses, he built a riding school on the
property.
From 1991, for 11 years, he hosted a prestigious show jumping
competition attended by
the most famous show-jumpers of the international horse
riding
circuit.
The Luciano Pavarotti Foundation has transformed Casa Pavarotti into a
museum
Reggio
Emilia
After leaving Bologna we
stayed 3 nights at Reggio Emilia, a small city about 75km away.
The
Reggio Emilia approach to preschool and early primary education was
developed after World War II
by psychologist Loris Malaguzzi and parents in the villages
around the city and has now been adopted world-wide.
It is a pedagogy described as student-centered and constructivist that
utilizes self-directed, experiential learning in relationship-driven
environments.
The program is based on the principles of respect,
responsibility, and community through exploration and discovery through
a self-guided curriculum.
At its core is an assumption that children
form their own personality during early years of development and are
endowed with "a hundred languages",
through which they can express
their ideas.
The aim of the Reggio approach is to teach children how to use
these symbolic languages (e.g., painting, sculpting, drama) in everyday
life
Cavazzone
Vinegar Factory and Restaurant
We had an excursion to this
vinegary in the undulating hills
outside Reggio Emilia.
We were taken on a tour and given a talk about how they make
high-quality balsamic vinegar.
After the tour we had a delicious 3-course meal in their restaurant.
We had many fine meals on this tour but this one was the best.
Sabbioneta
On our way from Reggio
Emilia to Parma we stopped at Sabbioneta,
a World Heritage town.
The main attraction in Sabbioneta is The Teatro all'antica
("Theatre in the
style of the ancients"),
the first free-standing, purpose-built theatre in the modern
world.
The theatre was constructed between 1588 and 1590.
Up until this time theatres were built as part of palace complexes.
The Duke Vespasiano-Gonzaga wanted to turn his tiny Ducal seat into an
idealized classical city and
the theatre was to be a sign of a civilized society that the Duke was
trying to create.
The Teatro all'antica is the second-oldest surviving indoor theatre in
the world (after the Teatro Olimpico in Vicenza),
and is, along with that theatre and the Teatro Farnese in Parma, one of
only three Renaissance theatres still in existence.
Parma
We
stayed 5 nights in
Parma. Most of the Verdi Festival
operas and concerts were taking place here.
The city is famous for its prosciutto (ham), cheese, architecture,
music and surrounding countryside.
It is home to the University of Parma, one of the oldest
universities in the world.
The name Parma
means circular
shield.
Parma Opera House
We saw 3 shows here, a Verdi Concert and 2 Verdi operas - Jerusalem and Falstaff.
9:35pm - the clock in the opera house.
Baptistery
of Parma Cathedral
This striking octagonal building was commissioned in 1196.
Before you could enter the
Cathedral you had to be baptised.
Hence Baptisteries were built for this ceremony.
It is not known at what time the Baptistery became absorbed
into
the Basilica.
The octagonal design of the building,
employed in virtually all Early
Christian baptisteries,
symbolizes the seven days of the week plus the Day of the Resurrection
and Eternal Life.
Busseto
Not far from Parma, Busseto is a small town that has many associations
with Verdi.
He was born in the nearby village of Le Roncole in 1813 and he moved to
the town in 1824.
The
Rocca dei Marchesi Pallavicino
on the Piazza Giuseppe Verdi in Busseto.
From the 13th century, the “rocca” or
“fortress” was the family’s palace; it is
now the
city hall after being acquired by the municipality in 1856.
Teatro Giuseppe Verdi (the Giuseppe
Verdi Theatre) is a small opera
house located in a wing of the former fortress.
Although
Verdi opposed its construction (it would be
“too
expensive and useless in the future”, he said)
and is
reputed
never to have set foot in it,
he did contribute 10,000 lire towards the construction and maintained
his own box.
The Theatre opened in 1868 when 2 Verdi operas were presented - Rigoletto
and Un
Ballo in Maschera.
Verdi did not attend even though he lived only two miles away at his
home, the Villa
Verdi, in the
village of Sant’Agata.
We saw a Verdi concert here.
Nearby
is Le Roncole where Verdi
was born.
Verdi was the first child of Carlo Giuseppe Verdi
(1785–1867)
and
Luigia Uttini (1787–1851).
The baptismal register, prepared on 11 October 1813, lists
Verdi
as being "born yesterday",
but since days were often considered to begin at sunset, this could
have meant either 9 or 10 October.
Following his mother, Verdi always celebrated his birthday on 9
October, the day he himself believed he was born.
From
the age of four, Verdi was given private lessons in Latin and
Italian by the village schoolmaster, Baistrocchi, and at six he
attended the local school.
After learning to play the organ, he showed so much interest in music
that his parents finally provided him with a spinet.
Verdi's gift for music was already apparent by 1820–21 when
he
began his association with this church,
serving in the choir,
acting as an altar boy for a while, and taking organ lessons.
After Baistrocchi's death, Verdi, at the age of eight, became the
official paid organist.
Villa
Verdi
- Sant'Agata
Villa
Verdi is the house
that composer Giuseppe Verdi owned from
1848 to the end of his life in 1901. It is located in the village of
Sant'Agata,
less than 3km from the village of Le Roncole, where
he was
born in 1813, and the town of Busseto where he lived from 1824.
After buying the estate on which he began to build his
house in 1848
and, after various stops and starts, it was completed in 1880.
Originally, the house was occupied by his parents, but, after the death
of his mother, his father returned to Busseto.
Verdi and Giuseppina Strepponi, the opera singer with whom he lived
prior to their 1859 marriage, moved into the Villa in 1851.
Cremona
On our way from Parma to Milan we visited Cremona.
Cremona is especially noted for its musical history and
traditions, including some of the earliest and most renowned makers of
stringed instruments.
Antonio Stradivari and many others made their famous violins and other
stringed instruments here.
The Violin Museum
in Cremona was brilliant.
The
priceless instruments were beautifully
diplayed and there was lots of information and history of stringed
instruments.
At a violin workshop we were given a talk on the making of violins.
And lastly to Milan.
Milan
Cathedral
The Duomo is a most impessive sight, right in the heart of Milan.
We were able to take a lift up to the top and walk on the roof and
terraces.
Milan Cathedral, dedicated to St Mary of the Nativity (Santa
Maria Nascente), is the 5th largest church in the world (by floor area).
Construction began in 1386. In 1805, Napoleon Bonaparte,
about to
be crowned King of Italy, ordered the façade to be finished.
In the following years, most of the missing arches and spires were
constructed.
We were able to take the lift up to the roof and to walk on it.
I love gargoyles.
It was great to get up close to them.
Inside the Cathedral.
Galleria
Vittorio Emanuele II
The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II is Italy's oldest shopping mall
and is named after Victor Emmanuel II,
the first King of the
Kingdom of Italy.
It was designed in 1861 and built by architect Giuseppe Mengoni between
1865 and 1877.
A cup coffee at the Galleria.
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The Block Arcade in
Melbourne
which was erected between 1891 and 1893 was designed by architect David
C. Askew
whose brief was to produce something similar to the Galleria
Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan.
The result was one of Melbourne's most richly decorated interior
spaces, replete with mosaic tiled flooring, glass canopy, wrought iron
and carved stone finishings.
The exterior façade of the six storey building has nearly
identical facades on Collins and Elizabeth streets
is one of Australia's best surviving examples of the
Victorian
Mannerist style.
The name came from men walking around 'the block' one direction and
women in the opposing direction,
as a tradition before going to the Victorian Football League matches.
Margaret says that it a poor cousin of the Galleria
Vittorio Emanuele
II, but it is still a very elegant arcade.
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La Scala Opera House
(Teatro alla Scala)
La Scala was inaugurated in 1778.
The premiere performance was Antonio Salieri's Europa Riconosciuta.
Many of the finest singers from around the world, have appeared at La
Scala.
The theatre is regarded as one of the leading opera and
ballet
theatres in the world.
A
fire destroyed a previous
theatre, the Teatro Regio Ducale, in
1776, after a carnival gala.
After much argument it was decided to build a new theatre on the former
location of the church of Santa Maria alla Scala.
The church was deconsecrated and demolished and, over a period of two
years, the theatre was completed.
The name Scala comes from the powerful Scala family of
Verona.
In the 1300s Verona was the capital of a wide territory that extended
over almost the whole of north-east of Italy.
As it often happened at that time, together with wars, Scala family
leaders tried to consolidate their power through wedding alliances
with neighboring countries.
In 1350, Mastino II della Scala, Lord of Verona, gave his doughter
Beatrice away to Bernabò Visconti,
eminent lord of Milan that was extending his control over Lombardy down
to the West coast of Lake Garda, right to the border of Verona
territory.
Despite the marriage being arranged, it turned out succesful and
abiding.
Bernabò and Beatrice had fifteen children and when she died
in
1384, he imposed on all Milan citizens a year of mourning.
Because of her great dignity and royal manners Beatrice was known by
everybody as Regina: Queen.
In 1381 she ordered the the reconstruction of the church of Sant
Veronica in Milan.
The new chuch was dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, but
everybody ended up calling it with the name of its founder -
Santa Maria della Scala.
The church had ups and downs through the centuries and ended up in
ruin.
In 1776, under the Austrian domination of Milan, Maria Theresa of
Habsburg ordered its demolition to make space
for a new theatre that preserved in its name the memory of the old
church - Scala Theatre.
We had a comprehensive tour of the opera house.
The view from a private box.
We
saw Verdi's opera, Nambucco,
which
is based on the biblical books of Jeremiah and Daniel.
Nambucco
premiered in this theatre in 1842.
Margaret in front of a statue of Gioachino Rossini, her
favourite composer.
Gaetano Donizetti
is her favourite opera composer.
His L'elisir d'amore (The Elixir of Love), a comic opera is her
favourite opera.
It premiered in 1832 in another theatre in Milan.
Guiseppe Verdi
Verdi's tomb at Verdi Casa di Riposa.
Sforza Castle - Castello
Sforzesco
Sforza Castle was built in the 15th century by Francesco Sforza, Duke
of Milan, on the remnants of a 14th-century fortification.
Later renovated and enlarged, in the 16th and 17th centuries
it was one of the largest citadels in Europe.
Extensively rebuilt by Luca Beltrami in 1891–1905, it now
houses several of the city's museums and art collections.
An interesting musical instrument in the museum at the castle.