Portugal - 2016
In July -
August - September 2016 we spent
11 days in Portugal on our
49-day Melbourne - Dubai - Paris -
World War 1 Western Front
Battlefields - Portugal - England - Wales - Scotland - Dubai -
Melbourne trip.
After 11 days in France we
flew from Orly airport in Paris to Lisbon in Portugal, a
2¼ hour flight.
Lisbon
Wide, wide busses at Lisbon airport.
Belém
Tower
Belém Tower, is a fortified tower located in the
Lisbon
suburb of Santa Maria de Belém.
It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of the significant
role it played in the Portuguese maritime discoveries of the era of the
Age of Discoveries. The tower was commissioned by King John II
to
be part of a defence system at the mouth of the Tagus river and a
ceremonial gateway to Lisbon.
The tower was built in the early 16th century and is a prominent
example of the Portuguese Manueline style.
The structure was built from lioz limestone and is composed
of a
bastion and a 30metre,four-storey tower.
The name comes from the name Bethlehem.
It has housed canons, prisoners and ryalty over the centuries.
Its ornamental façade is striking.
The
25 de Abril Bridge
(Ponte 25 de Abril, 25th of April
Bridge)
connects the city of Lisbon
to the municipality of Almada on the left (south) bank of the Tejo
River.
It was inaugurated on August 6, 1966, (its 50 year anniversary was
being celebrated while we were in Lisbon) and a train deck was added
in 1999.
Because it is a suspension bridge and has similar colouring, it is
often
compared to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, US.
It was built by the American Bridge Company which constructed the San
Francisco–Oakland Bay Bridge, but not the Golden Gate Bridge.
With a total length of 2,277 m, it is the 27th largest suspension
bridge in the world. The upper deck carries six car lanes, while the
lower deck carries two train tracks.
Until 1974, the bridge was named Salazar Bridge. The name "25 de Abril"
commemorates the Carnation Revolution.
The first aerial crossing of the
South Atlantic was made by the
Portuguese naval aviators Gago Coutinho and Sacadura Cabral in 1922,
to mark the centennial of Brazil's independence.
Coutinho and Cabral flew in stages from Lisbon, Portugal, to Rio de
Janeiro, Brazil, using three different Fairey III biplanes,
and covered a distance of 8,383 km between March 30 and June
17.
The journey started at the Bom Sucesso Naval Air Station in the Tagus,
near the Belém Tower in Lisbon, at 16:30 on March 30, 1922
the Portuguese Naval Aviation aircraft Lusitânia. A
Fairey
III-D MkII seaplane was specifically outfitted for the journey.
In their 1st
aircraft they
flew from Belém to Las Palmas de Gran Canaria in
the
Canary Islands, to São Vicente Island, Cape
Verde, to
Praia on Santiago Island,
and then to the Saint Peter and Saint Paul Archipelago, already in
Brazilian waters.
However, when ditching on the rough seas near the archipelago, the
Lusitânia lost one of its floats and sank.
The aviators were then carried to the Brazilian Fernando de Noronha
islands.
Enthusiastic Portuguese and Brazilian public opinion about the flight
led the Portuguese government to send a 2nd aircraft,
another Fairey III seaplane to complete the journey.
The new plane, baptized Pátria, was sent to Fernando
Noronha.
Coutinho and Cabral flew to the Saint Peter and Saint Paul
Archipelago to resume the journey
at the point where had been interrupted.
However, an engine problem forced them to once again make an emergency
ditching in the middle of the ocean, where they drifted for nine hours
until being saved by the nearby British cargo ship Paris City, which
carried them back to Fernando Noronha.
A 3rd
aircraft, another Fairey
III – baptized Santa Cruz by the wife of Epitácio
Pessoa,
the President of Brazil – was sent out to Fernando Noronha
and Coutinho and Cabral resumed their journey, flying to Recife, then
to Salvador da Bahia, then to Vitória and from there to Rio
de
Janeiro,
where they arrived on June 17, 1922, ditching in the Guanabara Bay.
The two men were received as heroes by huge crowds.
Their journey had lasted 79 days; the actual flight time was
just
62 hours and 26 minutes
Although the North Atlantic had already been traversed in a non-stop
flight by John Alcock and Arthur Brown in 1919,
Coutinho and Cabral's flight remains notable as a milestone in
transatlantic aviation, and for its use of new technologies such as the
artificial horizon.
Hieronymites Monastery
The Hieronymites
Monastery, or Jerónimos
Monastery, is
a monastery of the Order of Saint Jerome in Lisbon.
The
monastery is one of the
most prominent examples of the Portuguese Late Gothic Manueline style
of architecture.
It
was classified a UNESCO World Heritage
Site, along with the nearby Tower of Belém, in 1983.
It
is
the most impressive symbol of Portugal's
power and wealth during the Age of Discovery.
King Manuel I built it in
1502 on the site of a hermitage founded by Prince Henry the Navigator,
where Vasco da Gama and his crew spent their last night in Portugal in
prayer before leaving for India.
It was built to commemorate Vasco Da
Gama's voyage.
Vasco da Gama's tomb was placed inside by the entrance, as
was
the tomb
of poet Luis de Camões,
author of the epic The
Lusiads
in
which he glorifies the triumphs of Da Gama and his compatriots.
Other
great figures in Portuguese history are also entombed here,
like King
Manuel and King Sebastião, and poets Fernando Pessoa and
Alexandre Herculano.
Pasteris
de Nata
Pastel de nata is a Portuguese egg tart pastry, common in
Portugal, Brazil, Angola, Mozambique, Cape Verde,
São Tomé and Príncipe,
Guinea-Bissau,
Timor-Leste, Goa, Malacca and Macau.
They were introduced later in mainland China, and countries with
significant Portuguese immigrant populations,
such as Canada, Australia, Luxembourg, the United States, and France,
among others.
We ate some at a pleasant outdoor cafe near the Hieronymites Monastery.
We
went on an optional tuk-tuk tour of Lisbon.
Águas
Livres Aqueduct
The Águas Livres
Aqueduct ("Aqueduct of the Free Waters")
is a historic aqueduct in the city of Lisbon.
The main course of the aqueduct covers 18 km, but the whole
network of canals extends through nearly 58 km.
The city of Lisbon has always suffered from the lack of drinking water,
and King John V decided to build an aqueduct to bring water from
distant sources.
Construction started in
1731 under the direction of an Italian
architect Antonio Canevari, replaced in 1732 by a group of Portuguese
architects and engineers.
Portuuese architect, Custódio Vieira, conceived the
centerpiece of the aqueduct, the arches over the Alcantara valley,
completed in 1744.
A total of 35 arches cross the valley, covering 941 m. The tallest
arches reach a height of 65 m, and many are pointed, reminiscent of
arches in Gothic style.
It is considered a masterpiece of engineering in the Baroque period.
National
Palace
of Queluz
This 18th-century palace, located at Queluz, about 20km from
Lisbon, is one of the last great Rococo buildings to be designed in
Europe.
The palace was conceived as a summer retreat for Dom Pedro of
Braganza,
later to become husband and then king consort to his own
niece, Queen Maria I.
It served as a discreet place of incarceration for Queen Maria as her
descent into madness continued in the years following Dom Pedro's death
in 1786.
The king's bedroom
Pedro IV (Peter IV) of
Portugal, was born in this room in 1798
and he died here in 1834.
He had 36 known children and was the first emperor Brazil
(Pedro
I) after its independence in 1822.
Sintra
Sintra is a tourist town in
the foothills of Portugal's Sintra
Mountains, about 30km from Lisbon.
Sintra is known for its many
19th-century Romantic architectural buildings, which has resulted in
its classification as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Sintra is
dotted with royal retreats, estates, castles and other buildings,
including the Sintra
National Palace.
Sintra
Palace
Sintra Palace is the
best-preserved medieval royal residence in
Portugal,
being inhabited more or less continuously from at least the
early 15th century to the late 19th century.
It was once a Moorish (Islamic) palace and most of the buildings date
from 1415.
There are lots of tiled rooms with a large Islamic influence (no
animals).
Swan Hall
The kitchen chimneys
The Kitchen
The Magpie Room
Beautifully
tiled walls in this large room.
Cascais
Situated on the Atlantic Ocean, about 30km from Lisbon, Cascais is a
popular vacation spot for both Portuguese and foreign tourists
After 3 nights in Lisbon we travelled by bus to Porto
where we statrted our week-long Douro River cruise.
On the way we visited Coimba.
Coimbra
About 210km north of
Lisbon, Coimbra is the fourth-largest city
in Portugal (after Lisbon, Porto and Braga).
An important city in Roman times, Coimbra was also the capital
of
Portugal from 1131 to 1255.
During the Late Middle
Ages, with its decline as the political
centre of the Kingdom of Portugal, Coimbra began to evolve into a major
cultural centre.
This was in large part helped by the establishment the University of
Coimbra in 1290, the oldest academic institution in the
Portuguese-speaking world.
Apart from attracting many European and international students, the
university is visited by many tourists for its monuments and history.
Coimbra's historical buildings were classified as a World
Heritage
site by
UNESCO in 2013: "Coimbra offers an outstanding example of an
integrated university city with a specific urban typology as well as
its own ceremonial and cultural traditions that have been kept alive
through the ages."
Coimbra
University
Established in 1290 in Lisbon, it went through a number of
relocations
until it was moved permanently Coimbra in 1537, being one of the oldest
universities
in continuous operation in the world, the oldest university
of
Portugal, and one of its largest higher education and research
institutions.
The University of Coimbra has over 20,000 students, and hosts one of
the largest communities of international students in Portugal,
being the most cosmopolitan Portuguese university.
The
University's São Miguel Chapel.
The university had a beautiful old library. We visited it but
were not allowed to take photos inside.
Here is a photo from the Internet ....
Porto
Porto is 120km north of Coimbra and 330km north of Lisbon.
Porto,
also known as Oporto, is the second largest city in Portugal
after Lisbon and has a population of 1.9 million.
Located along the Douro river estuary in Northern Portugal, Porto is
one of the oldest European centres,
and its historical core was proclaimed a World Heritage Site by UNESCO
in 1996.
The western part of its urban area extends to the coastline of the
Atlantic Ocean.
Settlement dates back many centuries, when it was an outpost
of
the Roman Empire.
Its combined Celtic-Latin name, Portus Cale has been referred to as the
origin of the name "Portugal",
based on transliteration and oral
evolution from Latin.
The
bridge in the
foreground is the Maria
Pia bridge (Ponte
Maria Pia), commonly known as Ponte Dona Maria,
a railway bridge built in 1877 by Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame).
Built of wrought iron, its two-hinged crescent arch used to
carry
the railway to Lisbon for 353 metres across the River Douro at a height
of 60 mabove the river.
When constructed it was the longest single-arch span in the world.
It is no longer in use as a rail bridge, a modern replacement having
been constructed in 1991.
The
Dom Luís I
(or Luiz I) Bridge ( Ponte Luís I
or Luiz I), a double-decked metal arch bridge spans the Douro River
between the cities of Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia..
At the time of construction its span of 172 m was the longest of its
type in the world.
The bridge often is confused with the nearby Maria Pia Bridge, a
railway bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel, built nine years earlier and
located a kilometre to the east.
However, although they bear a strong resemblance to one another, the
earlier bridge has only one deck.
An
avenue of strange-shaped sycamore trees
Livraria
Lello is frequently rated among the top
bookstores in the world.
It is claimed to be the most beautiful bookstore in the world.
Elements of the facade and much of the interior are decorated in Art
Nouveau, with some features of the Gothic Revival.
The bookstore was frequented by JK Rowling, author of the Harry Potter
series, when she taught English in Porto and is reported to be an
inspiration for her writing.
The queue to enter was too long.
São Bento railway
station
Inaugurated in
1916, the historical station is known for
its tile (azulejo) panels that depict scenes of the History of
Portugal.
It is located in the Almeida Garret Square, in the centre of the city.
There are over 20,000 tiles.
They are the work of Jorge Colaço, the most important
azulejo
painter of the time.
The panels depict landscapes, ethnographic scenes as well as historical
events like the Battle of Valdevez (1140),
the meeting of the knight Egas Moniz and Alfonso VII of León
(12th century),
the arrival of King John I and Philippa of Lancaster in Porto (1387)
and the Conquest of Ceuta (1415).
Taylors
and Crofts Cellars
Established
over three centuries ago in 1692, Taylor’s is one
of the oldest of the founding Port houses.
It
is dedicated entirely to
the production of Port wine.
Port from the upper areas of the Douro Valley is transported here to be
aged in vats before bottling.
The slightly milder and humid climate helps the aging.
After a tour we tasted a light port and a ruby port.
We boarded the Queen
Isabel for our 7-day Douro River cruise in Porto.
There
are a large number os
eucalyptus plantations in this area
and a number of paper mills.
We were there in the middle of summer and just like
Australia they have bushfires.
Because of detours around the fires it took us an extra 2 hours of
travel in the bus on the trip from Lisbon to Porto.
Cruising
the Douro River through locks near Peso da Régua to
Pinhão
Palácio
de Mateus - Mateus Palace
Built in the first half of the eighteenth century, this
palace is set
in beautiful gardens.
It is considered to be one of the finest examples
of baroque civil architecture in Portugal.
The palace is owned by the Mateus Foundation, part of the family who
produce rosé.
Most of the rooms had intricately carved wooden ceilings
but we were
not allowed to take photos inside.
Upper
Douro River Valley
Castelo
Rodrigo
From its lofty hilltop
position, the small village of Castelo Rodrigo
looks down over the
plateau stretching eastwards to Spain
and northwards to the deep valley
of the River Douro.
According to tradition, it was founded by Alfonso
IX of León, in order to be given to Count Rodrigo Gonzalez
de Girón, who repopulated it and gave it its name.
With the
Treaty of Alcanices, signed in 1297 by D. Dinis, poet and king of
Portugal, it came into the possession of the Portuguese crown.
Castelo Rodrigo still
preserves scars left by the constant disputes over the territory which
has belonged variously to both Portugal and Spain.
Sandeman
Winery - Pinhão
The House of Sandeman was
founded in London in 1790 by George Sandeman, a young Scotsman,
and has
grown to be one of the most prestigious Porto Wine brands in the world.
It is a big operation with millions of bottles of wine produced each
year.
They
gave us a taste of a white and a ruby port
Pinhão
The town of Pinhão is about 120 km from Porto and
380 km
from Lisbon in the heart of the beautiful Douro Valley.
The Douro Valley is the oldest demarcated wine region in the world and
has a microclimate perfect for growing grapes for the famous Port wine.
Terraced vineyards practically climb straight up the vertical slopes
stretching up from the river.
Considered
to be one of the most beautiful train stations in Portugal,
Pinhão Train
Station has a collection of azulejos (tiles)
from
1937.
The four walls of the station are decorated with 24 blue glazed mosaics
made of more than 100 azulejos
and depict typical scenes of the Duoro Valley all related to port wine
production.
A rabelo
boat, a typical wooden Portuguese vessel once used
for
the transport of wine casks,
from the quintas (wine estates) to Porto for bottling, sales and export.
Since road transport is now used to carry the wine to Porto, these
rabelo are used for tourist cruises.
The captain of the Queen
Isabel.
My
72nd birthday on board the Queen
Isabel
They gave me a small cake.
It was our last night on board.
Guimarães
About an hour from Porto, Guimarães has a
significant historical importance due to the
role it played in the foundation of Portugal.
The city is often referred to as the "birthplace of the Portuguese
nationality" or "the cradle city" (Cidade Berço in
Portuguese)
because it is widely believed that Portugal's first King, Afonso
Henriques, was born there.
For some decades,
Guimarães was the capital of the County of Portugal,
however, shortly after the Battle of São Mamede (1128)
due to the needs of the Reconquista, Coimbra became the
kingdom's
capital.
The
Arrábida Bridge
is an arch bridge over the Douro River
that
connects Porto to Vila Nova de Gaia, in Portugal.
It is the most downstream bridge across the Douro River, just a few
kilometers from the Atlantic Ocean.
At the time of its completion in 1963, the bridge's main span of 270m
was the largest of any concrete-arch bridge in the world.
The end of a great 7-day cruise and of our 11 days in Portugal.
From Porto we flew to Stansted near London.
We continued our 7-week 2016 European tour with a 9-day tour of England
and Wales and a 9-day tour of Scoctland.