Cuba - 2019
In
April-May 2019 I had a 6-week trip to
Central America.
(Melbourne - Los Angeles – Mexico – Cuba
– Belize – Guatemala –
Mexico City – Los Angeles - Melbourne)
After my 14-day IntrepidTravel tour from Mexico City to
Cancun,
I had a-hour flight
to Havana for my week-long IntrepidTravel trour of Cuba.
Havana
Havana
was founded by the Spanish in the 16th century and due to its
strategic location it served as a springboard
for the Spanish conquest of the Americas, becoming a stopping
point for treasure-laden Spanish galleons returning to Spain.
Old Havana was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1982.
The Cuban Capitol Building
Gran
Teatro de La Habana Alicia Alonso (Havana's Grand Theatre Alicia
Alonso)
Havana
Cathedral (Catedral de San Cristobal)
The Jesuits began construction of the cathedral in 1748 on
the site of an earlier church and it was completed in 1777,
well after King Carlos III expelled the Jesuits from the
island in 1767.
The Cathedral's front elevation is Baroque with asymmetrical bell
towers.
One can see fossilized marine fauna and flora in the stone walls as the
Cathedral is,
as many buildings in Havana are, constructed out of blocks of coral.
Christopher Columbus’ remains were kept in the cathedral
between
1796 and 1898, before they were taken to Seville Cathedral in Spain.
Old Havana has a number of city squares.
The Cathedral Square
is bound by some fine former residences as well as the cathedral.
Havana
began as a trading port, and suffered regular attacks by
buccaneers, pirates, and French corsairs.
Morro Castle (Castillo de
los Tres Reyes Magos del Morro), is named after the three
biblical Magi.
It is a fortress guarding the entrance to Havana Bay.
The design was drawn up by the Italian engineer Battista Antonelli;
originally under the control of Spain,
the fortress was captured by the British in 1762, and was returned to
the Spanish under treaty terms a year later.
Plaza
Vieja
Viaje
Fantástico
No one knows the meaning behind this giant sculpture of a nude woman
with a fork riding a rooster in Plaza Vieja.
It
is said that around the year 1600 the first fountain of the city
could be seen at the San Francisco de Asis Square.
In 1836 it was replaced by a beautiful fountain made of white Carrara
marble by Giuseppe Gaggini, under the good auspices of the Villanueva
Count.
This fountain is called
Fuente de los Leones (Lions Fountain).
You
did not have to look hard to see the old American cars in Cuba.
They were ubiquitous.
The José Martí Memorial (Monumento a José
Martí) is a memorial to José
Martí, located on the northern side of the Plaza de la Revolución.
It is the largest monument to a writer in the world.
José
Julián Martí Pérez (1853
– 1895) was a Cuban poet, essayist, journalist, translator,
professor, and publisher,
who is considered a Cuban national hero and an important
figure in Latin American literature.
Through his writings and political activity, he became a symbol of
Cuba's bid for independence against Spain in the 19th century.
From adolescence, he dedicated his life to the promotion of liberty,
political independence for Cuba, and intellectual independence for all
Spanish Americans.
His death was used as a cry for Cuban independence from Spain
by
both the Cuban revolutionaries and those Cubans previously reluctant to
start a revolt.
We
had a 3-hour trip in a modern, air-conditioned, 24-seat,
Chinese-made bus from Havana to Viñales
in the eastern area
of the
island of Cuba.
Overlooking
the lush Viñales
Valley.
The Viñales Valley has been listed as a UNESCO World
Heritage
Site for the outstanding karst landscape and traditional agriculture
as well as the local architecture, crafts and music.
Viñales
Viñales is a small town and municipality in the
north-central Pinar del Río Province of Cuba.
Tourism centered on the Viñales Valley is developing.
The Viñales Valley, a UNESCO World Heritage
Site, is an agricultural area, where crops of fruit,
vegetables,
coffee and especially tobacco are grown by traditional
methods.
My room at the guesthouse, Casa Alberto, in Vinales.
Viñales Valley farmland
walk
We had a 4-hour walk through these rich farmlands in the Viñales
Valley
with a local guide, Alex.
The Viñales Valley has been listed as a UNESCO World
Heritage
Site for the outstanding karst landscape and traditional agriculture
as well as the local architecture, crafts and music.
Tobacco leaves drying on the ciling.
Making
cigars
A
swim in a cenote (Cueva
de Los Peces).
A
swim in the Caribbean Sea.
at The Bay of Pigs.
The
Bay of Pigs Invasion was a failed military invasion of Cuba
undertaken by an American CIA sponsored rebel group in April 1961.
It was a counter-revolutionary military group (made up of mostly Cuban
exiles who had travelled to the United States after Castro's takeover,
but also some US military personnel) and intended
to overthrow the increasingly communist government of Fidel Castro.
Launched
from Guatemala and Nicaragua, the invading force was defeated within
three days by the Cuban Revolutionary Armed Forces,
under the direct command of Castro.
Cienfuegos
The city, located on the southern coast of Cuba,
is about 250km from Havana and has a population of 150,000.
The city is dubbed La Perla del Sur (Pearl of the South).
Cienfuegos literally translates to "one hundred fires".
It was founded by French immigrants from Bordeaux and Louisiana in the
1820s who constructed a more
European style town than other more Spanish-like settlements in Latin
America.
Cienfuegos port, despite being one of the latest settlements
established during the colonial era, soon grew to be a
powerful town
due to the fertile fields
surrounding it and its position on the trade route between Jamaica and
South American cities.
The
centre of Cienfuegos was declared a World Heritage Centre in 2005.
Cienfuegos
was the only place that we visited in Cuba where there were
shops like we have in our towns and cities.
This was due to the influence of the French settlers.
A
merchant-trader built this tower so that he could see shipping
movements in the bay.
For a small fee I climbed the tower.
The
main square is at least twice as large as those in other cities.
The Catedral de Nuestra
Señora de la Purísima Concepción
, a cathedral with stained glass work, was built between 1833
and 1869.
Teatro Terry
This grand old theatre is right in the centre of Cienfuegos, and is in
very good shape - outside and in - considering that it dates from the
1880s.
In its time, it has been a major centre for the Arts in Cuba -
mega-stars of their day like Enrico Caruso and Sarah Bernhardt sang
here.
Trinidad
The city of Trinidad has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1988.
This is one of the first Cuban cities founded by the Spanish (around
1514). It grew to become the richest in the country
thanks to the production of sugar cane, cattle and tobacco by
the slaves that were imported from Africa.
Plantation owners made it a point to show their wealth, so Trinidad,
Cuba, is full of beautiful palaces, airy squares and colonial homes.
Fellow
traveller, Johnny outside our guesthouse in Trinidad.
El
Nicho Waterfall
El Nicho is located inside the Gran Parque Natural Topes de
Collantes,
a forested park that extends across the Sierra Escambray
mountain range in central Cuba.
It was about an hour and a half drive from Trinidad.
A
swim in the Caribbean Sea near Trinidad.
Valle
de los Ingenios
About
20km from Trinidad, on the way back to Havana, we
stopped at
Manacanacu in the Valle de los Ingenios (Valley of the Sugar Mills).
The valley was a centre for sugar production from the late 18th
century
until the late 19th century.
At the peak of the industry in Cuba there were over fifty sugar cane
mills in operation in the three valleys,
with over 30,000 slaves working in the mills and on the sugar
cane plantations that surrounded them.
Sugar production was an important industry for Cuba from the earliest
settlement by the Spanish, who introduced sugar cane
to the island in
1512,and trade in the commodity enriched Trinidad and the surrounding
areas.
The island became the world's foremost producer of sugar during the
late 18th and 19th
centuries,
when sugar production was the main
industry.
The climate and soil were perfect for the cultivation of sugar cane,
and good ports and interior connections facilitated transport and
exportation of the refined sugar.
The abolition of slavery by the Spanish in 1820 made the practice of
importing slaves more difficult,
but it was not until the Wars of Independence in the 19th
century that the economic dominance of the area came to an end,
as many of the sugar mills were abandoned or became run down.
The valley is a World Heritage Area.
The
45 metre tower was constructed in 1816 by the
owner, Alejo Maria Iznaga y Borrell.
The height and magnificence of the tower served to display Iznaga's
power over his slaves
and his stature in the sugar industry and local
society.
At one time it was the tallest structure in Cuba.
According to experts, the bell that formerly hung on top of
the
tower announced the beginning and the end of the work day for the
slaves,
as well as the times for prayers to the Holy Virgin in the
morning, midday, and afternoon.
It was also used to sound an alarm in case of fire or slave escape.
[Orledis, our tour-leader, told us a different story ...
There were 2 brothers who were both trying to woo the same girl.
One dug a deep well for
the community to impress her, the
other
brother built this tower.
Neither succeded, the girl married their father.]
A view from the top of the tower.
We
stopped at a small
farm between Trinidad and Santa Clara.
With Orledis, our tour-leader, and the farm owners
It
appeared that a lot, maybe most, of the Cuban people lived this way.
It reminded me of similar scenes that I have seen in Asia (Laos, Bali,
Myamnar ...) and in Africa (Uganda, Kenya, ...).
Coffee plants, tobacco plants, cashews, bananas, mangoes and other
fruit, pigs, a couple of cows, poultry were grown or raised on the
small property.
Che
Guevara
Mausoleum (Conjunto Escultórico
Memorial Comandante Ernesto Che Guevara)
Located in Santa Clara, the mausoleum houses the remains of
the revolutionary Ernesto "Che" Guevara
and twenty-nine of his fellow combatants killed in
1967
during Guevara's attempt to spur an armed uprising in Bolivia.
Guevara was buried here in 1997 after his remains were discovered in
Bolivia, exhumed and returned to Cuba.
Santa Clara was chosen as the location in remembrance of Guevara's
troops taking the city in December 1958, during the Battle of Santa
Clara.
The result of this final battle of the Cuban Revolution was
Cuban dictator Fulgencio Batista fleeing into exile.
The memorial was very simple inside.
There were jungle themes, photographs and a few of his
personal items (rifles, binoculars, radios, ...).
Photography was not allowed inside.
Santa
Clara
And so back to Havana along landscaped roads with not a lot of traffic.
I
enjoyed my week in Cuba.
From
Havana I flew back to Cancún
in Mexico.
My 6-week Central American trip continued through Mexico to Belize and Guatemala.